I was fortunate enough, in the dying months of the year, to eat at both of chef Simon Rogan's establishments. First, in the first week of November, I stayed a weekend at L'Enclume in the blissful Lake District village of Cartmel. In the unseasonal dazzling sunshine the Lake District appeared even more magical than usual and with the rooms reminding one more of a well heeled French family home than a hotel the signs for an enjoyable weekend were good. Even so the plentiful breakfast did not fully presage the dazzling evening meal on the Sunday night. I have rarely experienced such an adventurous yet wholly successful tasting menu. Presentation was also on an exquisite level accompanied by knowledgeable, attentive but never overweening service. A truly memorable evening - If only it was closer to London!
And, as luck would have it, Chef Rogan has indeed opened a pop-up London establishment in Marylebone with a similarly exceptional menu, staff and presentation. Roganic is a "toe-in-the-water" exercise which, with any luck, heralds a permanent Rogan outpost in the capital! go to either (or preferably both!) of these wonderful restaurants)
Roganic, 19 Blandford Street, London W1U 3DH (020-7486 0380)